Fashion at the edge: haunting, spectacle, glamour, cruelty, disconnection, and trauma, in the 1980’s and 90’s these designers explored it all
Leigh Bowery the Legend of Leigh Bowery
Thierry Mugler 1997 S/S Haute Couture
Vivenne Westwood Biography
Worlds end fashion show – Pirate collection
Punkature Pairs, 1982
Nihilism 1994 Nihilism: “Life is without objective meaning, purpose, or intrinsic value.”
For his first staged runway show, Lee McQueen presented models that appeared to have been victims of a car wreck, or in the eyes of some reviewers, abuse. They walk down the runway spattered in what appears to be blood or dirt, and wear pants cut so low on the hip that they reveal the top of the models’ bottoms
Highland Rape 1995 info Highland Rape,” which introduced the world not only to the designer’s trademark bumster pants, but also to his fierce national pride. The models’ torn garments and bloodied bodies ignited a fury, but this was no endorsement of rape, it was an exploration of Scotland’s turbulent history with England.
Dante 1996 Dante was shown in a candle-lit church in Spitalfields, London with a skeleton seated front row. Beauty and blasphemy were woven throughout this wide-ranging collection AMcQ experimented with denim and Victoriana, tropes that he would return to again and again.
La Poupee 1997 The Doll. Inspired by the artist Hans Bellmer, who fetishistically rearranged toy dolls, McQueen experimented with proportion and, more disturbingly, trussed the models in various metal restraints.
Creating an art piece 1999 This show was inspired by the Arts and Crafts movement, and it ended with the model Shalom Harlow rotating on a turntable, wearing a white dress, being spray-painted by two industrial robots. Shalom Harlow trained as a ballerina. It is often said that the inspiration behind the collection was the dying swan
Martin Margiela Bio documentary
Autumn / Winter 2000